My Way of Spider Solitare

If you play bridge you will understand my approach (and addiction) to the serious business of Spider Solitaire. If you don't care for bridge, all is not lost.  Read on anyway.

In both games the first thing you do after dealing a hand of cards is to evaluate it.  In bridge you can pass a weak hand.  The SS equivalent is to re deal.  In either case you are not penalized for not playing the hand.  Of course in bridge all must pass before the hand is re dealt, while in SS you are the lone ranger deciding for yourself.

In bridge you evaluate your hand by counting points according to whatever bidding system you and your partner have adopted.  I have devised a point count system for SS.that so far lets me win between one fifth to one fourth of the four-suit games I elect to play. (I assume you understand the rudiments of playing SS. People who play easier versions of SS may wish to first experience the frustration of taking their game to the four suit level before reading further.)

Since few of the hands you deal are worth playing, my evaluation system begins with a set of quick discard techniques.  Don't bother to play a hand if::

--The Trips rule:  The ten cards face up after a deal contain three or more cards of the same numerical value, i .e. three sixes or four sevens, etc.

-- The Sequence Blocker rule: Face up cards contain any combination of three cards that are Kings or Aces.

-- The Same Suit Sequence rule: Face up cards don't include at least three cards of the same suit in sequence (2ht, 3ht, 4ht, not 2ht, 4ht, 6 ht).  Four or five card sequences are even better if you have the patience.

With practice in using those rules you can get rid of an unpromising hand in a few seconds.  Use them in any sequence you are comfortable with.

 If a hand passes this screen it is time to identify your points. Do this before starting to play the hand.  More rules:

-- Two cards of the same suit you can join into a sequence count three points; each additional card in sequence counts four points.

-- Two cards of different suits in sequence count one point; each additional card counts one point.

-- Cards of different suits in sequence that are in sequence with and higher in value than two or more cards of the same suit in sequence count one each.  Example: 6di, 5spd, 4ht, 3ht = 5 points.

-- One card of a different suit in sequence with and lower in value than two or more cards of the same suit in sequence counts as zero.  Example: 4ht, 3ht, 2di =3 points.

The logic behind these counting rules is fascinating, at least to me, perhaps because I made them up.  If you are just interested in counting and playing, permission is granted to skip past all these italicized words of wisdom. 

When a card is joined with another card in the same suit, neither card  needs to be moved ever again unless for a good tactical play: two points.  Whenever a card is moved from the down stack another card is exposed and thus informs your play: another point.  Experience suggests that the longer the same suit string the better the odds that it will get even longer: thus three points for two in sequence and seven -- rather than six points -- for three in sequence, ten for four, etc.

When a card is joined with another card in a different suit from a down stack another card is exposed and also informs your play: two points.  However, that join must be unpacked in order to win: minus one point for a net of one point.

Time to add up your points, again before starting play.  Some guideposts as you add:

-- The Ten Point Rule:  Don't bother to add up your points further unless you can see a two card same suit sequence to go with your three card sequence you identified under the Same Suit Sequence Rule (see above) or you have a four flusher (four cards same suit in sequence) or better.

--  The Straight Flush Rule: Draw a straight flush in poker you're in, right?  Same with Spider -- almost.  The other five cards should not run afoul of the Trip Rule or the Sequence Blocker Rule (see above).
Note: it is irresistibly tempting to honor this rule in the breech.

-- The Threshold Rule: My results suggest that you need a minimum of 15 points before a game is worth playing if you wish to win at least one fifth of all games in a set. You may of course set your own threshold.  There are no Spider Solitaire police.

At long last we are ready to commence to get ready to actually play a game.  Your mouse is no doubt getting twitchy tailed.  Some useful philosophy first. 

Deals of 15 or more points are rare. I often deal and evaluate 50 or or more hands before finding one worth playing. This can get boring. The temptation to play a hand of fewer points than your threshold can easily overwhelm better judgement. One remedy that occasionally works is to make a game out of the evaluation process. How many hands can you scan in a minute? Over 20 is splendid; under 10 is poky. If your first impressions is do not play, deal another hand; the splendid look of a high point hand is soon unmistakable.

If you occasionally play a hand "anyhow," and lose, don't beat yourself up. You are not therefore a bad person -- just weak. You will have ample company.

My version of Spider has the "New Game" Button right next to the "Deal" button which, if you don't have a tight rein on your mouse, can get you another set of ten cards on top the initial set which you have just judged not worth playing.    Arrrrrgh!  I have never, repeat never, been able to recover from this unenforced error.  Why the hackers that  gave us this splendidly demanding game did not pause at your request to order  two ten card deals in a row and ask if this step is one you really wish to take is beyond me.  They ask that helpful question often enough otherwise.

I just thought of some more philosophy.

You may wonder why three cards of the same suit in sequence count 7 points while three cards of mixed suits in sequence only count 2 points.  These additional counting rules explain my philosophy (inspired by the works of John Rawls):

(1) Join a card of the same suit to another in sequence for one point.  This move turns a stack card face up for another point.  Once joined two (or more) cards of the same suit need not ever be split again (but of course may be split later for good tactical play): third point.

(2) Join a card of a different suit to another in sequence is also one point.  The move also turns a stack card face up for another point.  However, this sequence must be split if the game is to be won:  minus one point for a net of one point.

(3) Join additional cards of the same suit to a sequence pair in the same suit for three additional points plus one bonus point.  This rule, more arbitrary than logical perhaps, places a premium on the length of the opening strings in the same suit.  After all, 8 strings of 13 cards in the same suit, King to Ace, is your goal, isn't it?

It's time to play!  An evaluation system is helpful, but a good playing strategy is vital.  Most SS hands are won or lost in the opening play before the second round of ten cards is dealt.

I use the following rules of thumb as a guide when playing a hand:

(1) Build all possible same suit strings first.  Then concentrate on opening up one or more empty columns  When you can't do both empty the column.  See (4) below.

(2) Next form strings of mixed suits, starting always with higher order cards and when possible ending each string with two or more cards of the same suit.

(3) Whenever two or more strings headed by the same high value card can be appended to another string, with each exposing a down card, methodically try them all, using the "undo" function to back up your play and start over. 

(4)  As you play preserve and build on same suit strings first, then mixed suit strings.  The sole exception to this cardinal -- and obvious -- rule is to empty a stack of down cards and create an open column whenever possible.   Open columns are the key to purifying and lengthening strings, to unpacking mixed strings and ultimately winning the hand.

(5)  Whenever possible avoid placing Kings in open columns except to retire a completed string. Avoid placing Aces in open columns as well.  If you have a choice leave Kings and Aces uncovered if they cannot immediately be moved.

(6)  Before dealing another set of 10 cards stop and ask yourself if you are intuitively satisfied with the way you played the last set.  If not, undo it completely and play it again.  A good memory for what you did before will be handy here.

(7)  Play every game to the bitter end, even if you "know" it is hopeless.  Learning from failure is a virtue (John Rawls).

(8)  If you were able to retire two or more strings of 13 cards before reaching a losing impasse look things over and consider replaying the game from scratch rather than starting a new game.Your odds of winning a replay can be better than winning a new deal. 

Be warned.  Spider Solitaire is highly addictive. There is no known cure, not even a twelve step program, and it may cause carpal tunnel syndrome.  Played in moderation ( four to six hours daily, no more) it will keep your brain's synaptic nodes in trim, reduce time spent consuming alcoholic beverages (which do not make you any smarter) or smoking funny cigs (ditto) and if discussed avidly at family gatherings will measurably reduce their length and frequency.